Skopelos Harbour

In the Aegean Sea to the south of Thessalonika, very close (60 nautical miles) to the mainland and the main port of Volos, opposite the shores of Pelion, the mountain of the Centaurs, lies the beautiful archipelago of the Northern Sporades, of which Skopelos - known as Peparithos the verdant island, in antiquity - is part. The lush landscape of these islands often comes as a surprise to the newcomer, used to barren and arid Aegean islands such as the Cyclades. Since ancient times, settlers and pirates alike have been attracted by the pine-clad mountains, abundant springs and rivers, endless beaches and hidden coves that are found throughout the Sporades. Contrast the luscious green with the translucent blue of the sparkling sea and you have the trademark logo of Skopelos – Green on blue!
Forty years ago, the islands were invaded by the rich and the famous, who flocked in their yachts to the beaches of the Northern Sporades, in a glorious heyday of exclusivity. Fickle, they then turned their attention to St Tropez and the south of France, leaving the rest of us to enjoy the islands in peace. Today, the beautiful coastlines continue to lure Greek and foreign holiday makers alike and the more discerning glitterati are returning, their sleek yachts once more mooring in the picturesque harbours.

Stafilos Beach, Skopelos

History
Skopelos possesses a deep and troubled history. It has been attacked and occupied many times by many races, and was always a target for pirates. The islands of the Aegean provided ideal cover for pirate activities - especially those of the fabled.

Barbarossa – and piracy flourished until the 19th century. It is believed that Skopelos was first colonised about 30,000 years ago. Little archaeological evidence survives, but at Sendoukia there are several rock-cut graves believed to date from the Neolithic period. They are situated at the top of a high cliff, which affords a fabulous panoramic view out to sea. The island is known to have been colonised by the Minoans as far back as 1600BC. The tomb of a Minoan king, Prince Staphilos, who was said by Homer to have fought at Troy, was found at Stafilos on a promontory by the main beach. Alongside the body was a golden sword and numerous artefacts now in the museums of Athens and Volos. Peparithos, after whom the island of Skopelos was named in ancient times, was Staphilos’ brother. Classical remains include those of the temple of Asklepios, the god of health and medicine, in Skopelos Town. By 800BC the island had been colonised by Chalkideans and there were three cities on Skopelos; Peparithos (Skopelos Town), Panormos and Selinous (Loutraki).

These three cities continued to exist until Roman times. Remains can be found all over the island, but little has been done to excavate areas formally. There is an information booth at Loutraki giving details of the island’s Classical and Roman past. In the Byzantine period, the island was self-governed and had its own bishop. Churches and monasteries all over the island testify to the strong influence of religion on the hearts and minds of the Skopelitic people. The scenery on Mount Palouki is particularly beautiful and the view of Skopelos Town and its bay is enchanting. The six monasteries of Palouki date from the 14th century and can be toured by car or bike, but are even more enjoyable when explored on foot. The remains of the Venetian fortress destroyed by Barbarossa, can be seen at the Kastro, which dominates Skopelos Town.

Skopelos was one of the first islands to be involved in the 1821 revolution against Ottoman rule, providing ships and sailors for the war effort, a role of which its people are justifiably proud. During the Second World War, the island was first occupied by the Italians and then the Germans. British soldiers were sheltered in the Monastery of Taxiarchon. There is a small museum in Skopelos Town. It is housed in an old traditional mansion house and contains folk artefacts, furniture and costumes. The museum is an active cultural institution and organises day seminars as well as publishing books.

General Info
High season is between 15th July to the end of August and it is at its peak during the first fortnight of August.

Accomodation of all types is available on the island. Luxury hotels and others, rented apartments, studios, rooms to rent, all of which are of good quality, offer genuine island hospitality. You can stay in town or village, in the country or by the sea – the choice is yours!

Car and motorbike rental is easy. In Blo, you can also rent motorboats.
Some hotels with pools are open to the public providing you use the facilities ie. buy a drink or snack at the bar. Do not take your own food if you are using the pool of a hotel in which you are not staying.

In Skopelos Town there are:
Three banks along the paralea and several cash point machines
Three pharmacies (which are dispensing chemists in Greece, with staff who are trained to prescribe for minor ailments). 24 hour medical centre on the ring road, including a dentist for emergencies. Several private doctor /dentist practices. An International bookshop/newsagency selling English newspapers available on the day of issue.

Two Internet cafés
A post office
A bus station providing regular bus services around the island
A taxi stand

In Glossa there are:
A bank and cash point machine
A pharmacy
An international newspaper kiosk operating in the summer
Bus stops and a taxi rank

In Elios there are
A cash point machine
A pharmacy
Bus stops and a taxi rank

Fishing in Skopelos

Background
Skopelos is small – about 17km long from NW to SE, whilst it measures only 8km at its widest point. It is dominated by two main mountains – Mount Delphi (660m) to the NW and Mount Palouki (546m) to the SE. The only low lying part of the island is situated between these two mountains and divides the island in half, as it stretches from the bay of Skopelos to Stafilos. This is why Skopelos has no airport.

On the NE side, the coastline is very steep, whilst the SW coasts are gentler and interrupted by bays and beaches with crystal clear turquoise and azure blue waters. Most of the island is covered in dense forest, which often runs all the way down to the sea, creating scenery of extra-ordinary beauty. The island’s pride is the many diverse landscapes from flat plains and rich valleys to pine clad mountains. This scenery is a magnificent backdrop to the rugged coastline revealing an intricate display of coves and beaches.

The verdant and varied landscape is perfect for rambling holidays, punctuated by visits to town and village and lingering days on the fine beaches. Artists particularly enjoy and are inspired by the beauty of the island. Many come especially to develop their skills during seminars run by organisations such as the Arts Foundation of Skopelos. Their work can be seen – and bought – in the several galleries in the back streets of Skopelos Town. The Cultural Organisation of Skopelos has also set up music, painting, theatre and photography groups, which organise events in a crowded high season calendar. In recent years, Skopelos, as a member of the cultural network of Greek towns, was declared the ‘Town of Photography’ and the Greek Photographic Centre was created here, which holds prestigious exhibitions throughout the summer.

Skopelos is a lovely, much under-rated island, and a rewarding one to discover. The people have managed to develop tourism here, without significantly damaging the character of their island. Thus, they have retained their traditional architectural style, protected the natural environment and preserved many elements of their folk culture. They have also retained traditional activities such as animal rearing, the cultivation of the olive and the plum and are involved in off-shore fishing by the old, traditional methods. There are many folk artisans – potters, ceramists, woodcarvers and shipbuilders - who all carry on the traditions of their forefathers and are proud of their handiwork. Strong traditions and considerable beauty, combined with its delightful main town and relaxed atmosphere, make Skopelos an island to savour.

Skopelos Town is the largest settlement on the island and the main port. Mulberry trees line the waterfront and shade numerous cafés and restaurants. Built on a natural amphitheatre surrounding the harbour, its houses are quite different from that of the other houses in the Aegean, making the town one of the most character-full island ports in Greece. It has been designated a world heritage site and as a result strict building and preservation orders have kept it colourful, clean and neat with narrow, climbing streets, countless tiny chapels and the domes and belfries of the many old churches emerging here and there among the roofs of the houses. The oldest part of town is car-free – mules, donkeys (and feet!) are the designated transport for everything from rubbish collection to household deliveries.

Glossa is the second largest town on Skopelos. It is built on the mountain slopes and commands a magnificent view towards the sea and the island of Skiathos. The sunsets here are fabulous. The village is surrounded by orchards of lemon, orange, plum and almond trees, as well as the ubiquitous olive. The town has been inhabited continuously from antiquity to the present day. It is largely untouched by tourism and provides a peaceful refuge from the stresses of modern living. There are few shops, a couple of tavernas and cafes and a small newsagent’s kiosk which operates only in the summer. Wander through the steep ancient back-streets, admire the magnificent views and climb to the top of the town to visit the beautiful church.

From Glossa the road winds its way towards the sea and the coastal settlement of Loutraki, the second port of the island. It stands on the site of the ancient city of Selinous, and a short walk from the present-day port brings us to sections of the ancient walls of that city. Loutraki offers a tree-lined waterfront with an array of eating and drinking places, as well as a small beach, ideal for a dip before or after lunch.

Other villages are to be found along the coast road from Skopelos. They are:

Stafilos, spread along the flat valley and having many pensions and apartments. There is also a selection of supermarkets, tavernas and restaurants. The bus stops at the main road and there is about a 500m walk down to the beach, which is lined with pine trees and is a mixture of sand and shingle. The water is crystal clear and ideal for bathing. The taverna at the top of the beach steps has wonderful views of the bay.

Agnondas, which has a small shingle beach and harbour, sometimes acts as an emergency port when the sea is rough and it is impossible to disembark at Skopelos Town. There are several small tavernas here which serve excellent seafood as well as Greek specialities. It is an ideal spot to watch the sunset over an early aperitif in the shady café.

Panormos is a beach resort, with a very beautiful pebbly beach and deep blue waters. Its marvellous deep bay is one of the safest natural harbours in the Northern Sporades. Tavernas are plentiful, both on the beach itself and alongside the road. In the southern part of the bay is formed a deep and well protected cove, a striking blue lagoon, the picturesque Blo. Dense pine groves cover the land and run all the way down to the shore. Thanks to its safety and natural beauty, Blo is an ideal anchorage for small pleasure boats, which can be hired here.

Elios is a new town, built quickly after the earthquake of 1965, and therefore lacking in the traditional character of other villages. It is a new resort, with a small marina, restaurants, tavernas, a bakery, butcher’s shops and supermarkets. It has a long flat shingle beach girdled with rocks over which it is possible to scramble to find small, private coves.

Klima is the town that was destroyed in the earthquake and replaced by Elios. It has been rebuilt mostly due to the interest of foreigners purchasing the old houses and renovating them, and has something of a reputation as an artists’ community. No car is allowed in this charismatic little village with its breath-taking views to the sea.

How to get there

By air
Skopolos does not have its own airport so it is necessary to fly to neighbouring Skiathos and then complete the journey by ferry.

Scheduled flights to Athens
Olympic airlines http://www.olympicairlines.com and Easy Jet http://www.easyjet.co.uk both offer scheduled services to Athens on a daily basis. These are useful if you wish to travel out of season [i.e. October – April]. Easy Jet offer lower prices the earlier you book but make sure the timings allow you to connect with a domestic flight between Athens and Skiathos. Domestic flights are scheduled daily and can be made through Olympic Airlines.

Charter flights to Skiathos
Most charter flights run between the UK and Skiathos on Wednesdays and Fridays throughout the day. It is best to try and book a flight that arrives mid afternoon to ensure you catch the early evening ferry over to Skopelos in the afternoon. If your flight is later then we can book you a hotel room in Skiathos for your arrival.

Useful flight links:
http://www.flightline.co.uk
http://www.xl.com
http://www.flymonarch.com

Transfer between the airport and harbour
There is a taxi rank directly outside the airport.

Ferries between Skiathos and Skopelos
There is a scheduled service between Skiathos and Skopelos and also from the Greek mainland. In high season, the last ferry from Skiathos to Skopelos is generally at about 9.00pm. In early and late season the last ferry can be as early as 6.30pm – a factor to consider when booking flights. If you are going to arrive later then we can help organise an overnight hotel for you. Island hopping is relatively easy in the summer season, with regular ferries and hydrofoils plying between the Sporades, Evia, the mainland and even as far as Crete and Thessalonika.

Twin centre with Alonissos
Why not split your holiday and stay for the second week on Alonissos? We can advise you how to do this.

Things to do

Beaches
There are some very good beaches to choose from. Most are on the sheltered west coast and easily reached from Skopelos Town by bus or hire car. They range from tiny secluded coves (generally shingle) to long stretches of white pebbles or sand/shingle, such as popular Stafilos Bay, four kilometres from the port. The sea is sparklingly clear and the swimming excellent.

Limonari (10km from town) is a beautiful sandy beach which is a lovely setting for weddings. The bus does not stop here, so it must be reached by foot or, in high season, by water taxi. It has a very good taverna.

Milia (17km from town) is a long gently curving sand and pebble beach, which is particularly picturesque, offering a view of rocky outcrops and Dassia Island. Dolphins are often to be seen here in the early morning. There is a taverna and beach bar and the bus stop is approximately 500m away.

Hovolo (20km from town) has gorgeous secluded beaches surrounded by sheer cliffs and therefore only accessible by excursion boats.

Glysteri, reached by water taxi, is a deep inlet on the northern coast with a shingle beach. It is ideal for getting away from the crowds. There is a good taverna on the beach.

Glyfoneri means ‘sweet water’. It is approximately 20 minutes walk over the top of the old town and has green/blue crystal waters and a small shingle beach. There are several tavernas and ouzeries. Many, many other beaches and coves exist on the island. If you have transport and the wish to be alone, it is easy to find a secluded cove and achieve your desire. Good hunting!

Boat trips
Not to be missed is a boat trip to the National Marine Park. Founded in 1992, it includes Alonnisos and all the uninhabited islands towards the north and east, covering an area of 2,200 square kilometres. Its declared aim is to protect the rich marine life of the area, including over 300 species of fish, dolphins, whales and rare corals as well as to ensure the survival of the endangered Monk Seal and rare birdlife. Trips can be booked and begin from the harbour in Skopelos Town. Alternatively rent your own fibre glass boat with outboard engine and be your own skipper for the day!

Walking/Cycling
Skopelos is easy to explore, with its main road traversing the developed southern coast and continuing as far as Glossa in the north west. The island has a beautiful interior, full of plum orchards, pine forests and kalivia (small farm houses), but beware the lack of sign posts when travelling inland. There is excellent walking to be had along its old mule tracks which zigzag through the island. In the forests, one could be in Austria. Above the tree line or around the coast one sees magnificent panoramas at every view point.

The countryside is dotted with historic churches and monasteries, the air is scented with wild herbs and everywhere the tinkle of goat bells is to be heard. Bird life is plentiful, among them the rare gull, Laurus auduinii, the black peregrine falcon and the golden eagle. Cycling is not for the faint-hearted – all those hills!- But many people can be seen toiling across Pefkias, or Potami. An easier alternative is to rent a mountain bike - ideal for exploring and getting off the beaten track, or hire a 4 wheel drive kart and take off into the relatively unexplored forest to the north of the island.

Eating out
Skopelos has a wonderful choice of restaurants. They range through those offering traditional family fare, ouzeries which serve meze- style dishes, gyros/pizza fast food restaurants and take-aways, fresh fish restaurants and those offering more sophisticated Mediterranean menus. Some of the more upmarket restaurants offer live music. The choice is immense and prices suit every pocket.

Evening entertainment
Skopelos offers an array of entertainment for your evenings: Sip your cocktails in beautiful harbourside or hilltop bars where you can relax and enjoy the views across the water, or visit one of several night clubs offering Greek and foreign music. For a more traditional evening, some tavernas hold Greek nights with live bouzouki music and dancing. Skopelos is one of the very few places in Greece where you can still hear the authentic "rembetica" songs said to be the true origin to Greek folk music. The famous "Anatoli" ouzerie perched high on the top of the ancient castle in Skopelos Town is a renowned place to hear such music. George Xindaris and his orchestra regularly play authentic rembetica until late into the night with the view of the sea down below. An experience you should not miss! Telephone: 0030 24240 22851.

Shopping
Skopelos Town has two main streets leading away from the paralea (harbour front) full of shops selling souvenirs, shoes and clothing as well as numerous bakeries, cake shops, supermarkets, fruiterers and green grocers, butchers, sweet shops et al. There are also good quality shops selling local crafts such as hand painted pottery, hand made lace and embroideries, kilim rugs, antiques and paintings by local artists You will also find a jewellery workshop on the paralea offering exclusive designs at good prices, and several galleries showing the works of local and visiting artists.